Liew's Views

Location:

The Nile (starting from Aswan and heading north)

After our Abu Simbel visit in the morning, we had some time to shower (our last one for 2.5 days) and pack our stuff for our Felucca adventure up the Nile. For those unfamiliar with feluccas, they are traditional wooden sail boats of Egypt’s Nile.

Ours (pictured) was manned by 3 Nubians who not only sailed the boat, but also cooked for us. There were 16 in our group (including myself) plus 3 crew members on this felucca. Imagine 19 people cramped together on a boat with very limited space.

How you established your personal space: you boarded, then you picked a spot to lie down. Et voilà! That space your body just occupied? That was your personal space for the next 3 days and nights. 8 people on one side of the boat, and 8 on the other (the crew had their own separate space).

This is where/how we spent the next couple of days. As you can imagine, there isn’t all that much to do when you’re stuck on a small sail boat. So we read, listened to music, played cards, and generally tried to kill time. We ate all our meals on the boat and slept in sardine formation.

As for washrooms…well, the rule was to pick an unoccupied bush or tree once we docked. And you had to mind the donkeys, cows, and water buffalo because it’s kind of hard to see them in the fields when you’re trying to go at night. Yep, that’s right – you had to “share” the washrooms with the animals. Sharing is caring, right?

So we sailed from Aswan northwards. We sailed slowly….very slowly. You go at whatever pace the wind decides to take you at (“Insha’Allah” as they say).
The experience was really peaceful – which is such a change from the hecticness of the cities (especially Cairo). Along the way, we saw a lot of animals and village kids swimming in the Nile.

We also had the chance to swim in the Nile when our felucca was docked. The temperature of the Nile is cool, so swimming was very refreshing – and also much needed because of the intense heat during the day.
I guess taking a dip was the equivalent of showering during this part of our tour. Not that it was cleansing or anything – we were not only sharing our washrooms with the animals, but also the Nile.

All in all, the felucca journey was pretty calm. Well, except on our last night. A hilarious and loud game of drunken Charades was played and one person went overboard (as a result of the alcohol, I believe)!
The story is that a Brit woke up a Canadian – who promptly threw him into the water. It was a shock for everyone, especially the people on other feluccas around us – I think we woke them up! We were docked, and the victim could swim, so it was all good. That incident definitely made up for the rest of the slow, lazy, and uneventful days.

Most of my time on the felucca was spent catching up on sleep and reading – two things I never feel I have enough time for; so getting the chance to do that was great. I guess it was more like being pushed into it due to the lack of activities on the boat…but it was still great! Felucca’ing was definitely the most relaxing part of my trip.

For 2 days, we sailed onwards to our destination: Kom Ombo

Location:

Aswan

Aswan has long been a vital military and trade center, and also a border point. Just south of Aswan is Nubia; and beyond that, Sudan. Although Egypt is technically in Africa, I know a lot of you just thought “Sudan = Africa”. And yeah, it was ridiculously hot. There are two major temples near Aswan – Philae and Abu Simbel.

(Temple of) Philae is located on Agilkia Island. It is accessible by ferry and was a significant place of worship for Ancient Egyptians.

This complex was actually submerged under the flood waters of the Aswan Dam for a couple of years before it was dismantled and relocated during the 1970s to preserve it.

The complex consists of the Temple of Isis, Temple of Hathor, and Kiosk of Trajan; but ask me which one is which and I wouldn’t be able to tell you from my pictures (sad, I know!) – but you can always google it :).

The pictured colonnade was a Roman addition (obviously Roman, huh?).
As with other temples, there are a lot of reliefs – the ones at Philae are quite well preserved.
The blue-ish picture (below) of me was taken in a room where a priest would make sacrifices and supposedly gain power – it used to have a gold door, so you know it was definitely special.
Philae used to be a colourful temple, but is now the colour of sandstone – as most temples are in Egypt….

The principal deity of Philae was Isis (Goddess of motherhood and fertility). Some images of her in the complex were defaced by Coptics who hid in temples during times of persecution. You can see Coptic crosses left by the early Egyptian Christians in the temple.

Sidenote: if anyone knows how to make or where to get Kosheri/Koshari in Toronto, let me know. Because it is the best vegetarian food I’ve ever tasted. And it is related to this post because our group tried this dish in Aswan.

Abu Simbel was a long drive away from Aswan. Well, it seemed long – maybe it’s cause we had to leave in the wee hours of the morning to be a part of a convoy. The reason they travel so early is because the vehicles may not be able to handle the afternoon heat – so we had to allow plenty of time to travel there, sight-see, and travel back before the sun was able to fry vehicles (and us, I guess).

Abu Simbel was also saved from dam flood waters by a frantic international effort in the 1960s (note: a LOT of temples and historical buildings had to be saved from the dam(n) flooding of the Nile).
The two temples of Abu Simbel were originally carved into the rock of the Nile valley by Pharoah Ramses (Ramesses) II.

The Great Temple monuments were dedicated to the gods Amun, Ra-Harakhty, and Ptah, as well as to the deified Ramses himself. This temple can be seen on the $1 Egyptian pound note (LE).

Four 20m statues of Ramses guard the entrance to the Great Temple. From left to right, they represent him through his ages – from young to old. As you pass through a hall containing columns and various rooms depicting reliefs of his military superiority (some coloured), you eventually come to a room located furthest back from the entrance. In here are rock cut sculptures of the gods mentioned above in seating position (L-R: Ptah, Amun, Ramses II, Ra-Harakhty).

Here’s where the architectural facts get interesting: the temple was positioned in such a way that twice a year, on October 22 and February 22, the rays of the sun would penetrate this sanctuary and illuminate the statues – except for the statue of Ptah, who always remained in the dark. It is thought that these dates represent the King’s birthday and coronation day respectively, but there is no solid evidence to support this – though the significance of the dates is agreed on.

The smaller temple is dedicated to Hathor – a goddess who personified the principles of feminine love, motherhood and joy – and was built for Ramses’ wife Nefertari (not to be confused with Nefertiti) who was one of the Great Royal wives.

The statues of Ramses and Nefertari are equal in size – which was not common in Egyptian art.
Traditionally, statues of queens that stood next to those of the pharaoh were never taller than his knees. This exception indicates the special importance (and love) attached to Nefertari by Ramses.

Lake Nasser surrounds Abu Simbel and stretches from southern Egypt into northern Sudan.
It’s on the top 10 list of largest resevoirs (artificial lakes) by surface area. Its creation was unfortunately also responsible for wiping out all the Nubian villages. Egypt’s entire Nubian community was forced to relocate. Nubia is said to be the homeland of Africa’s earliest black civilization.

After the Abu Simbel Adventure, we got on a boat. A m___ f____ boat. You know the lyrics…and if you don’t, you should. :)

Location:

Luxor

First thing’s first – we had to say good-bye to our amazing Bedouin guides before heading for Luxor. L-R and even phonetically spelled: Sala/Saleh, Said/Sayeed, Hamdi/Humdi, Salim/Saleem

Day 7 & 8 were spent in Luxor (previously known as the ancient city of Thebes). Luxor is a city that has become completely dependent on tourism and foreigners because it contains many of the biggest and most famous of the ancient monuments.

What’s interesting about Luxor is that the temples are mostly on the east bank (where the sun rises) and the necropoli are on the west bank (where the sun sets). This has to do with how ancient Egyptians saw the world. The administrative, religious, and living areas are built on the east bank because the rising sun is associated with life and rebirth. The necropoli, and associated mortuary temples, are located on the western side because the ‘land of the setting sun’ is associated with death. (Frommer’s Egypt, 2008)

If you’ve ever read about Egypt, you’ve heard of Karnak (Temple)….and if you haven’t, well now you have. It’s the second most visited site in Egypt (second to the Giza Pyramids).

We arrived in Luxor around lunch time and took horsedrawn carriages (which are really common in Luxor) to Karnak in the late afternoon.

Karnak is a large open-air museum and the largest ancient religious site in the world. The reason it’s so big is because many rulers contributed to the site until it was a vast and spectacular collection of ruined temples, chapels, obelisks, statues, and other buildings.

One of most famous aspects of Karnak is the Hypostyle Hall. It has an area of 50,000 square feet with 134 massive columns arranged in 16 rows. When you walk into the hall, you immediately feel small. The columns are gargantuan!

The room was originally roofed and the columns, walls, and ceiling were brightly coloured (which you can still see on parts of the arches and ceiling).

Our next day began super early because we had to get to the Valley of the Kings (aka the Valley, VoK) before it got really hot. The VoK is on the western side so we sailed across the nile on a ferry to the west bank where our donkeys were waiting for us. Donkeys are not as comfortable as camels, but they did provide lots of entertainment all the way to the Valley as people tried to stay on during the bouncy ride.

The Valley of the Kings consists of royal tombs which were constructed for kings and powerful nobles of the New Kingdom. Despite the name, the Valley also contains the tombs of favourite nobles as well as the wives and children of both nobles and pharaohs. As of 2008, the Valley is known to contain 63 tombs and chambers (ranging in size from a simple pit to a complex tomb with over 120 chambers).

The royal tombs are decorated with scenes from Egyptian mythology and give clues to the beliefs and funerary rituals of the period. All of the tombs seem to have been opened and robbed of all their valuables at some point in time, but they still give an idea of the opulence and power of the rulers of this time. I guess it takes a lot of money and power to have people build you a big vibrant final resting place in chambers made of hard rock.

Admission only allows you into 3 tombs (excluding King Tut’s) and the tombs are closed on a rotating basis in order to protect them and minimize the damage from the effects of visitors. The 3 tombs we chose:

1. Ramses IV
2. Ramses IX
3. Horemheb

Fact: “Ramses” is synonymous with “Ramesses” so you will see instances in books, guides, etc. which refer to either name.
Out of the 3 tombs, Horemheb was my favourite. His tomb was never finished (he died earlier than expected…) so you can see sketching, reliefs (in progress) and half-coloured walls. I’d normally insert a picture of my own here, but photography wasn’t allowed inside the tombs. So instead, here’s a picture I found on Wiki of Ramses IX’s tomb.

The tomb of King Tut (Tutankhamen) is located in the VoK, however it is ticketed separately from the other tombs – I didn’t bother paying to go in as my guidebook said it’s probably not as interesting as the other tombs. And for some reason I didn’t feel like going to see his mummy (don’t worry, I saw mummies in the Cairo museum!)

After The Valley of the Kings, our group went for an authentic Egyptian meal. And after a break from tombs….we went to visit more tombs.

This time we went to the Valley of the Nobles which was for the wealthy and the high officials who were not of royal blood. Once again we visited 3 tombs:

1. Ramose – a royal scribe
2. Userhat – a royal scribe and tutor
3. Khaemet (Kha Em Het) – a royal scribe

Userhat’s tomb has depictions of winemaking, gazelle hunting, and hair cutting on the walls (Frommer’s Egypt, 2008). These tombs are significantly smaller than those in the Valley of the Kings so our visit was pretty short.

After dragging our dusty selves out of the tombs, our next destination was Habu Temple. It was used for various purposes over time; part of it was used as a Christian church, and a village (Djeme) was built within the walls as well.

Oh yeah, and the huge cylindrical columns usually associated with temples? Well those are reduced to stumps. But there are still nice engravings, reliefs, and colours to be seen.

Location:

Western Desert

After waking up covered in sand and feeling like I had a permanent layer of dirt stuck on me, I was glad to hear that we were heading to some accommodations – with showers! Don’t get me wrong – the feeling of filth was worth it for having the chance to sleep in the desert…but it’s nice to smell and feel clean.

During the journey to our next destination, Dakhla, our guides drove off the road into the desert where we saw mirages. It basically looked like we were driving near water…water that didn’t exist. The illusion is unreal. I tried to capture it on camera, so you’ll have to click for a larger image. The top half of the pic is real (it’s an oasis) but the water isn’t.

We ended up staying at Dohous Bedouin Camp in Dakhla for 2 nights. During the days, we swam in a hot spring (and smelled like sulphur after), visited a folk art museum, camel safari’d, and visited an abandoned city made of mudbrick.

El-Qasr: This is a big medieval city made of mudbrick. The picture was taken from a rooftop – and the city stretches as far as the eye can see. El-Qasr was built for defense. For example, there are narrow, short, maze-like tunnels – so that enemies couldn’t enter with camels & horses without being hindered by the height of the tunnels. And the winding tunnels with their blind corners didn’t help either. Oh yeah, by the way: it’s haunted.

The place is abandoned and nobody knows exactly why. It’s possible that people do know what happened, but nobody wants to talk about it. How’s that for mystery?

Our Bedouin guides won’t go into the city…and won’t even go remotely near it at night. Many Egyptians also refuse to enter El-Qasr. There is only one man (and his family) in living in this mudbrick city. Since they are the only people willing to live there, the government appointed them Guardians of the city.

“The Farting Spring”: This hot spring got its name because it bubbles (kinda like a cauldron). We all know what happens when you fart in water. Hence the name.

We were told by our tour guide to jump into the spring (from approx 3 meters high)…and we were also told it was only knee-deep. Now we all know we shouldn’t jump into shallow water…but I figured the guide didn’t want us to die (too much paperwork to fill out) so I took the plunge.
And sunk into quick-sand for a brief second before getting popped back up by the gas (which makes the bubbles).
It was weird and so very cool at the same time. That’s the only way to describe it.
The good thing is that you can’t actually sink into the sand very deep – some tried to stand on each others’ shoulders – the gas just pushes you back up so you float.

Other Activities & Notes:

• Sand Tobogganing: Magic carpets work on snow & sand! Each person in the group only went down the dune once… it’s hard work climbing up a dune; and more than once probably wasn’t worth it in that kinda heat.
• Camel Safari: Camels are sloooow and the safari was a nice relaxing ride. We were in a convoy-like group of adult and baby camels.
• al-Bagawat: In the Kharga Oasis, there are Coptic Christian Tombs which have biblical paintings on the walls and ceilings. The Chapel of the Exodus depicts mostly paintings from the Old Testament. The walls in the Chapel of Peace are covered in Arabic, Coptic and Greek graffiti, while the formal decorations are of a pure, Byzantine (Eastern Roman Empire) style.
• My Health Condition: was bad on Day 5, and the worst on Day 6 – therefore I don’t remember much about al-Bagawat and I spent the 2nd night in the desert sleeping in a jeep.

Below are pics of the “Other Activities”.

Refer to the “Ankh vs Cross” (3rd) pic taken in al-Bagawat. Note that an Ankh – the bottom symbol – is a symbol for eternal life. As you can see, it looks a lot like a cross…

If you click on the last pic for a close-up, you can see that the painting has been defaced. The faces of figures have been chipped/scratched out. This isn’t unique to this place. In many temples and monuments, you will see that has been done – i.e. by Coptics to Islamic or Ancient Egyptian temples, and vice-versa. Not to mention the many ‘foreigners’ (Romans, Greeks) that invaded/occupied Egypt – they’ve also done their share of defacing.

Location:

Western Desert

For those who haven’t seen my pre-Egypt post, here is the map of my entire journey:

For the purposes of my next couple of posts, your focus should be on the West side of the map (left side for those of you who need a hint…)

Day 3 of my journey, our Bedouin guides came to pick us up from Cairo. Our bags were loaded onto jeeps and we set off on a super long drive into the desert. When I say super long, I mean it must have been 7-8 hours of driving, plus about 2 hours added on for pit stops and food. I think my approximations are correct (I’m not sure because I slept through a lot of the ride…it’s a gift I have).

Our guides did all the cooking when we were in the desert. And the food wasn’t too bad at all. I wasn’t expecting much, so I guess it surpassed my expectations. Well, as long as I don’t have to cook it, I’ll enjoy the food. I guess one downside is the fact that the desert is where our meals started to consist of pitas…consistently…constantly – as in EVERY day. Some meals, we’d get a treat and get some other kind of bread! Oh and goat cheese was a huge part of meals too…as were cucumbers and tomatoes. Those were pretty much our staples. And those are pretty much the things I’ve been avoiding as of late.

Along the way to our destination, we stopped for some photo ops. Yup, we stopped in the middle of nowhere. To take pictures of sand, rocks, and more sand. It was really REALLY HOT. But what else do you expect when you visit Egypt in summer? (Crazy tourists…)
Here are our trusty jeeps in the middle of nowhere:

Our destination was the White Desert. Don’t worry, the Desert doesn’t discriminate – there’s also a Black Desert! Don’t ask about a Yellow or a Brown Desert, because I don’t think there are official deserts with those names…but all sand is pretty much brownish/yellowish so those colours dominate when it comes to desert presence (almost like Toronto…!).

It’s kind of obvious why the Black & White Deserts have their respective names.
The Black Desert gets its colour from the black rocks on the conical mounds.
The White Desert gets its colour from a combination of chalk and limestone. It kind of looks like snow, huh?

When we finally reached our destination in the White Desert, camp was set up.
When I say “camp” I mean there was an area where the Bedouins could cook and you could sit to eat (pictured).

Your sleeping area was any spot you could find in the sand – the one requirement was that you must be able to physically see the camp & jeeps from where you are. I guess you can get lost really quickly if you’re disoriented…i.e. when you wake up? – everything looks the same out there.

There were no tents.
No poles to pitch.
No tarps to set up.

We all slept under the stars.
On thin mattresses.
Around a campfire.

(Bliss!)

And yes, it definitely gets chilly in the desert – sleeping bags and blankets were very necessary.

The sky was clear and the stars shone brilliantly – the view upwards was nothing short of amazing. You’re just going to have to imagine what the night sky looks like with no light pollution. I’ve never seen so many shooting stars in one night.

Oh, and the moon? It was so bright, you didn’t need a flashlight at around 3-4am. After seeing the moon rise in the desert, I’m going to have to say that it definitely rivals a sunrise or a sunset. The sun’s nice when it glows red, but the moon wears red better.

The only other living things we saw that night were desert foxes. They look like little white dogs (very cute), but apparently they like to steal flip flops? So we had to keep our shoes in the jeeps. Somewhere out there, there is a fox den made of flip flops…

And here’s where I leave you with pretty pictures to sustain you until I decide to type out part 2.

Left pic: These are known as inselbergs (or outcroppings) which are shaped like a chicken under a tree. There are a lot of outcroppings in the White Desert – these ones just happen to be the famous ones.
Right pic: The sun just setting in the White Desert – view from the top of a huge inselberg.

Location:

Cairo

Everyone who travels to Egypt must see the Pyramids of Giza.
The Great Pyramid of Giza (Pyramid of Khufu) is listed as one of the 7 Wonders of the Ancient World. In fact, it is the only one left standing out of that list (the others were destroyed by either earthquake, arson or human destruction).

Not seeing the Pyramids…is like going to Peru and not seeing Machu Picchu. Or going to Rio de Janeiro and not seeing Christ the Redeemer (you know, the big statue of Jesus). Even if you think it’s overrated, you’ve gotta see it.

As cliché as it sounds, I can’t really describe what it’s like to see the Pyramids in real life. It’s difficult to convey how big it really is.

Some say/believe there’s an energy or aura around them – like the atmosphere should feel different when you’re in the presence of the pyramids. And then….there are also those who worship the pyramids on an annual basis so…take what you want from that. hah.

Personally, I didn’t feel it (whatever the “it” is supposed to be)…it’s hard to feel anything but hot, sticky, and crowded when there are hundreds of tourists around you at the hottest time of the year; nonetheless, I was awed by these giant structures.
They’re – simply put – amazing.

The Great Pyramid of Khufu has a square base approximately 230m long and rises to about 140m in height – if you can imagine it.
And if you can’t, well here’s some visual. Take a look at the people, camels, & vehicles in the background and how tiny they are (click for a larger image, zoom for detail).

There is the chance to go inside the pyramids, but there are limited tickets sold each day. Our tour group was too late to grab Great Pyramid tickets, but we did get to go inside the second one – the Pyramid of Khafre. If you’re claustrophic, don’t bother entering any pyramids. My journey inside involved walking down a very narrow and low tunnel to a room which houses Khafre’s granite sarcophagus; and it was definitely a sweaty affair. The temperature is actually better outside the pyramid in the blazing sun than inside it!

Well, we all know the heat doesn’t stop tourists – so off we went to see the Sphinx.

Description: Face of a man, body of a lion.
According to Wiki, it is the largest monolith statue in the world, standing 73.5 m (241 ft) long, 6 m (20 ft) wide, and 20 m (65 ft) high.

Note: Napoleon was not responsible for the missing nose.

Some things of interest:

• There is no clear answer as to how the pyramids were built. There are lots of theories, but according to Frommer’s Egypt guidebook, the most common involve 1) that the ancient Egyptians built ramps up the sides of the pyramids or 2) that they used some kind of lever device to lift up the blocks. Oh and of course there’s the theory that aliens built them. Those smart aliens…
• The Orion Correlation Theory. Its central claim is that there is an intended correlation between the location of the 3 largest pyramids of the Giza pyramid complex and the 3 middle stars of the constellation Orion (which forms Orion’s Belt).
• We were told that there is one room in the Great Pyramid (I think) where gravity measured 9.4 (instead of 9.8). If you put meat or fruit in this room, it won’t rot for a significantly longer time than you would expect. If you place a dull razor blade in the room, it will become sharp after a couple of days. Here’s where I have to admit that I have yet to find literature & research on this. A quick search of Google did not turn up hugely relevant results, but I’m still looking. If anyone knows of a resource, I’d appreciate a link/suggestion :)

My little disclaimer: Any seemingly factual tidbit that I’ve posted is not guaranteed to be true. I’m only re-iterating what I’ve heard or read. I’m no Egyptologist :)

If you’d like to see my public Facebook album of Egypt pics click here
Enjoy!

Oh, and check back soon for more of my Egyptian tales :)

Egypt was…AWESOME.

To tell you the truth, I didn’t want to come back.
And usually, I’m the type that likes to be back from vacation because I miss home.

I feel like I’m not done exploring Egypt. There is so much I didn’t do/see. At least it gives me an excuse to go back…one day?

Anyways, it’s time to get back to reality – although I’m loathing it.
I will definitely put up posts about some highlights of Egypt. But I’m doing it on Egyptian time – which means at a leisurely pace :)

Stay tuned.

I’m back!…and I’m going to walk like an Egyptian. How does an Egyptian walk, you ask? I’m not sure (I’m pretty sure they walk like we do…) But the song by The Bangles is awesome.

What I really mean to say is that I’m going to be in Egypt for 3 weeks. I’m going with a tour group (solo) called Gecko’s and the trip is appropriately named “Egypt Encompassed”.

In a nutshell, here’s the where/what:
- Cairo
– The Pyramids & Sphinx
– White Desert, 5-Day Western Desert Jeep Safari
– Bahariya, Dakhla
– Bedouin Desert Camp
– Camel Safari, Donkey Trek
– Luxor, Aswan
– The Valley of the Kings
– 4 Day Felucca Cruise
– Abu Simbel
– Komombo Temple
– Mt Sinai <--- Is said to be where Moses received the 10 commandments from God
- Dahab

I’m super excited because this is an ‘adventure-style’ trip which includes camping, sleeping in the open air on a felucca or in a reed hut, visiting some Bedouins, and so much more.

I haven’t decided if I will blog when I’m there…as I’m not sure I want to spend my time in an internet cafe, but there will be some post-trip notes I’m sure.

Some FAQ’s about my upcoming trip:

Why Egypt?
“Why not?” … It’s a country with a lot of history and culture. a LOT. Plus, it has one of the Seven Wonders of the (ancient) World!

Why not do some other countries like Jordan or Morocco while you’re in the area?
Although it would be nice to travel to other countries that are close by, I want to do one country – “in full” I guess you could say. Through all my travels, I have been to several countries, but not many major places/cities in those countries. i.e. Australia – I’ve been to Melbourne & Sydney, but missed out on: Adelaide, Brisbane, Perth, Cairns, etc. I want my trip to be different this time around. I want to see as much as I can of one country in a span of three weeks. I can’t see everything, but I can try. Egypt seems perfect for it.

Why are you going solo?
I’ve never been anywhere by myself. Truth be told, nobody had the time/funds to go with me during my chosen vacation dates. The cheese stands alone. I am feeling a bit nervous about it, but I think it will be a wonderful experience to travel alone and learn a lot about myself along the way.

I’m likely going to have the hottest summer of my life – but Toronto summer hasn’t been too nice lately so I’m looking forward to it.

too little time to type (for now).

My apologies, but my detailed on-goings in Korea will have to wait since I don’t have much time left here and I have to make the most of it by notwriting about it.  I’ve got the best personal tour guides in Korea who keep me busy – we really don’t stop til 6 in the mornin. sometimes 7.

This is most likely going to be my last post. so Cheers to my readers, commenters, and fellow travellers. Big Thanks to all the people who contributed to my wonderful trip by providing and participating in endless entertainment, taking time out of your day to inform me and show me around, and by providing accommodation.  And farewell to those who I’ve met along my travels – it’s a small world, so i might see you sooner than you think.

See you Torontonians soon.

It took us 2.5 hours to get to the mud festival. We spent 5 hours playing in mud. We got lost for 1.5 hours. Then it took us 5.5 hours to get home. Yes – we spent more time travelling than anything else.

The day began as normal – little sleep because of a late night out to welcome Cezan to Korea (for the night, Korean Beef BBQ was in order as were drinks in a park and a live band in a bar).  The girls were on 2 hours of sleep when we made our journey down to the bus terminal only to find out that we had to wait approx. an hour for the first bus to Daecheon Beach (the information booth guy said there were earlier buses!).The ride was full of restless sleep and confusion. i.e. “where are we and is this where we get off?” The bus driver made announcements in Korean and we had no idea what was going on. So we decided to follow people who were obviously going to the beach as well. Yes, we have become stalkers of English-speaking people in Korea.

When we finally got to the Boryeong Mud Festival (www.mudfestival.or.kr) at Daecheon Beach, we got down and dirty after finding a good spot. Mud was everywhere. when I say everywhere, I mean everywhere. There was no way to avoid it. We attacked each other with muddy paintbrushes to get a nice even layer of mud. Keep in mind that this isn’t just any mud – it’s supposed to be good for your skin.  Boryeong is known for their mud massages and mud skin products. After mud painting, we decided to cause a little ruckus in the mud pool. I have battle wounds from a mudfight with Hanna.  Apparently the pool wasn’t made to cushion falls.

So many people were muddied up – foreigners, locals, adults, youths, little kids. There were more things to do, like the mud slide and obstacle course, but only if you wanted to line up in a huge line and most of you know that i don’t do line-ups unless absolutely necessary.  There were some nice people to be met there, definitely.

After washing ourselves out on the beach and after Cezan’s fulfilled desire of being buried in sand (and being made into a sand mermaid),

To top it off, when we made it to the Cheonam Bus Terminal (end of our bus detour), we had to taxi to the subway station. We didn’t know where we were so another man from the bus ticket counter escorted us to the taxis and told us where to go. Yea, we had quite the number of unofficial guides that day.

We ended up catching the last trains. And everyone stared at the 4 semi-muddy girls who were using towels as blankets in the cold subway. 

When we had to transfer to another subway line the oddest thing happened. Everyone started RUNNING for the transfer subway train. We had no idea why they were running, but we knew it was for good reason so we broke out into a fast run too. I kid you not, these people seemed like they were running for their lives. When we got the platform, we found out that everyone was running for the last train – a very good reason to run, I guess. So us girls were lucky to catch the last one. And we were relieved to be finally home…so relieved that we went to eat and shop from 2 – 4 am.

All in all, an eventful day full of “a series of unfortunate events” (Cezan Duong, 2007)